If you want to learn more about baking, “Knead to Know” by Neil Buttery is a great choice. This exploration of baking covers not only the techniques and science behind it but also goes into its rich history and cultural significance, particularly through a British lens.
Neil Buttery has a knack for mixing history and science in a way that makes baking feel both exciting and easy to understand. He takes you on a journey through time, showing how baking has changed and why it matters to different cultures. Even if you’re not a science fan, you’ll find the explanations simple and clear.
However, there are a few things to keep in mind. The book doesn’t have many pictures, which can make it hard to imagine some of the baked goods if you’re not familiar with them. I found myself googling images to see what they looked like. Also, if you’re already an experienced baker, some parts might feel like review.
Knead to Know is a great read for anyone interested in baking, whether you’re a beginner or just curious about how baking connects to our world. Just be prepared to look up a few images online to get the full picture!
As an inexperienced baker, here are some of the interesting things I learned from the book, but trust me, there’s so much more to discover on your own when you read it!
Summary
The Art of the Golden-Brown Crust
The golden-brown coating on the surface of baked goods is not just a visual treat; it’s a result of complex chemical processes, primarily caramelization and the Maillard reaction.
- Caramelization occurs when sugars are heated, leading to the formation of compounds that offer sweet and intricate flavors.
- The Maillard reaction, on the other hand, is a chemical dance between sugars and amino acids. This reaction is responsible for a wide range of flavors, including savory, earthy, mushroom-like, vegetal, meaty, and even chocolatey or floral aromas. Although this process reduces the digestibility of the food’s exterior, the thin layer is negligible compared to the tender, digestible inside. This combination of textures and flavors is something we have evolved to crave and enjoy.
The Science and Necessity of Kneading
Kneading is much more than a mechanical process; it’s crucial for developing the dough’s texture and structure. Initially, kneading combines the ingredients evenly, smoothing out the dough. However, as kneading continues, particularly in bread-making, it significantly alters the distribution of gluten molecules.
- Gluten is an insoluble protein comprising two types: one forms long, spring-like molecules, while the other, smaller protein acts like ball bearings, allowing the long molecules to move freely but cohesively. This structure provides dough with its characteristic elasticity and strength, transforming it from a sticky mixture into a smooth, springy ball.
As Eliza Acton notes in The English Bread-Book of 1859, gluten is what makes wheat flour superior to other grains, giving it the ability to form light, elastic dough. Strong bread flour, often containing up to 15% gluten, is ideal for this purpose. The addition of salt not only enhances flavor but also tightens the gluten, further strengthening the dough.
Interestingly, the effect of gluten can be moderated by adding ingredients like butter, sugar, or eggs, making some doughs, like those for sweet buns, challenging to knead by hand. Alternatively, in sourdough, bacteria digest the gluten over several hours or days, which is why these doughs are often proofed in baskets to prevent them from spreading out too much.
The Role of Proving and Sodium Bicarbonate
In bread-making, the second rising is known as ‘proving.’ This step is crucial as it confirms that the yeast is still active, allowing the dough to rise properly.
The introduction of sodium bicarbonate as a leavening agent in the 1790s revolutionized baking. Unlike yeast, sodium bicarbonate reacts quickly with acids (such as the lactic acid in buttermilk) to produce carbon dioxide. This reaction forms bubbles that help the dough rise. However, in low-gluten doughs like those used for soda bread, these bubbles are fragile and can burst if not baked promptly.
Many thanks to NetGalley and Icon Books for giving me an advance reader copy of this book. I’m excited to share my sincere thoughts!
Author: Neil Buttery
Publication date: 12 September 2024
Number of pages: 256 pages
